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June 24, 2018
On our first morning in the Gaeltacht we took advantage of no scheduled breakfast time and let the morning ease into itself. After a while we headed to the Supervalu in Killybegs (a 15 minute drive) to do our main shopping for the week. After we returned the children got in some hurling and then we had lunch on the picnic table in the yard.
Now fully fortified we we stopped into Byrne’s Shop in Gleann Cholm Cille for some beach supplies. While in line I saw my friend from my old Oideas Gael days which was a very nice start to our stay. Equipped with shovels and pails, we set off for Maghera to hit the beach and maybe see some caves.
We intended to take the Granny Pass to the beach but missed the turn, so we went through beautiful Gleann Gheis instead. In the viewpoint at the top of the pass there was a van selling popcorn, tea and coffee which was never there before. The Wild Atlantic Way keeps bringing things like this to the west coast of Ireland, and for the most part the changes are good.
To reach Maghera, turn left about a mile before Ardara (south of Ardara). There are signposts for the beach, caves and a waterfall (but no names of anything). On the way to the beach we stopped at the beautiful Assaranca Waterfall. I was pleasantly surprised by the waterfall. I actually thought we had motored by it which was funny once I saw how large it is and that it has it’s own car park. Even though there hadn’t been any rain in a long time the fall was still impressive. I’m happy that we finally came down this way!
Assaranca Waterfall
A short time later we were at the car park for Maghera Strand. The farmer who owns the land charges €3 to park (there is an attendant) and also has a stand serving snacks, ice cream and hot and cold drinks. There is also a toilet that is 50 cents to use. It was nice to see someone capitalizing on the visitors without gauging them or taking away from the incredible scenery.
The car park for Maghera Strand
We parked, used the toilets and made the five minute walk to the dunes. I was not prepared for how amazing this beach would be, but the car park was full for a reason!
Overflow parking is in the field to the left. This road leads to Maghera Strand.
The road then turns into this path. You can see the beach in the background
When you reach the dunes there is a boardwalk over them
It is a pleasant easy walk through the dunes to Maghera Strand
The entire family had an amazing time at the huge beach. It was 20° when we arrived, but 24° by the time we left. The water was warm, the waves were pretty big and the sand was fine and white. The cliffs that surround the beach made for a truly beautiful setting that is hard to put into words. The pictures below do not show this but the strand is enormous. Even though the car park was completely full of cars and a full size bus, the people were still spread out enough that it felt as if you were there only with your group. We spent a couple of wonderful hours here before packing up.
The cliffs to the left of Maghera Strand.
Maghera Strand
On our way out we purchased two hot chocolates from the stand for €1.50 each. Then we turned right out of the car park to continue along the road so we could travel through the Granny Pass. When we visited the Áislann Chill Charta in 2014, the man in there recommended this drive and said that it is prettier than the Gleann Geis Pass.
Continuing the trend of the day, each thing that we saw on the this narrow one car wide road was more stunning than the last. A few minutes after leaving the car park and we were ascending through an absolute gem of nature. I haven’t been as impressed with a view since my first time through the Gleann Geis pass. I do feel like I need to emphasize that this road is more narrow than most roads. If you are not comfortable on a road that is too narrow for two cars, you might prefer walking on this road.
The view into the Granny Pass
The road winds up through the Granny Pass.
When driving it is important to look up the road to spot any oncoming traffic as pull overs are few on this stretch.
The view of the Glen below the road.
The Owenwee River Waterfalls begin at the top of the pass
The Granny Pass near Maghera, Donegal
We came out at the spot that we suspected must be the correct road for the pass. If you are coming from An Port, turn left after the Lergynasearhagh National School. We then returned to Teileann through Min an Aoire (along more small roads) and prepared to settle in for the evening. What an amazing welcome back!
Liam’s Highlight of the Day: Loved everything the same
Fionnuala’s Highlight of the Day: Maghera Strand
Gaeilge Experience: Only the TV
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