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2 July 2014

Modern cross marking St. Colmcille’s Birthplace

Fionnuala had trouble sleeping again last night and refused to let me comfort her at all, so Sarah again was called into duty at about 2 AM.  By the time we ate breakfast, assembled our picnic and got ourselves ready to explore it was 10:15 AM.  Today our plan was to head to the north of Donegal.  It took us about two hours to get to Gartan, including a brief stop at a shop in Glenties and a few wrong turns.  The kids did well in the car, but were thrilled to get out.

Luckily, they loved Colmcille’s birthplace.  They both investigated the large cross and the megalithic circle in the enclosure, while we all ate our picnic lunch.  I think they would have stayed all day, but I wanted to make sure we got to see Castle Doe (that’s how we got the kids in the car).  This sight is signposted, but keep your eyes peeled.

Marker of Colmcille’s Birthplace

Megalithic circle; protruding out the right side is the slab on which Colmcille is said to have been born

1 km up the road was our next stop, Colmcille’s Abbey.  I’m really glad that we included this in our trip!  The abbey was built inside a ringfort and is said to be where Colmcille’s family lived (and is also a possible birthplace) before later gifting the land to him for the monastery.

I had never visited either of these Colmcille related sites and found the monastery to be a nice stop.  As soon as we stopped, Liam (5) sprinted across the car park to the church with Fionnuala (2) right on his heels.  I heard “Wow, treasure!” and I began sprinting across the car park as well before they could touch something!  When I got inside the church I explained what all the tokens and offerings were for and each child then left a coin and we said a prayer.  After exploring some more Liam said that he wanted to leave another offering, so he collected some flowers and left these as well.

The 16th Century Church

A map of the complex

Then we headed into the cemetery, but it began to rain a little, so we hurried to the furthest boundary cross, checked out the original abbey foundations and got in the car before getting too wet. This is a still a pilgrimage site with five marked stations that I found (seven after reviewing my pictures later). The pilgrimage is performed between 9 June (Colmcille’s Feast Day) and 15 August.  The stations are as follows:

Rath Cnó Stations

Turas 1:
Inside the 16th Century Church.  The church was built in 1532 by Manus O’Donnell, Earl of Tyrconnell.  He was a descendant of St. Colmcille and wrote the biography from which most of the Colmcille tradition is derived.
At this station pilgrims kneel and say the Station Prayers (5 Our Fathers, 5 Hail Marys, 5 Glory Be and one Creed).

Turas 1 – Inside the church

Close up view of Turas 1

Turas 2:
On the side of the church building (the right-hand side as seen from the car park) there is a mound of stones.  Pilgrims circle the mound three times while saying the Rosary, placing a stone on the mound each time.  They then kneel and say the Station Prayers.

Turas 3: The top boundary cross

Turas 3:
At the top of the graveyard is a stone cross marking the western boundary of the monastic site (The northern boundary cross is inaccessible because the farmer has blocked it off.  Might this also could have been part of the original Turas?).  Pilgrims circle the cross three times rubbing their back against the cross and kissing it each time around while saying the Rosary.  They then kneel and say the Station Prayers.

Turas 4: The 10th Century Abbey foundation

The marker for Turas 4

Pilgrims circle the graveyard saying the Rosary, then enter the graveyard gate and circle the 10th Century Abbey three times.  Then they kneel at the Abbey foundation by the Turas 4 marker (next to a cross) and say the Station Prayers.

The foundation of the original abbey (Turas 4)

The foundation of the old abbey (the highest point)

Turas 5: The southern boundary cross by the church (next to the car park)

Pilgrims circle the cross three times while saying the Rosary.  They rub their back and kiss the cross each time, then kneel and say the Station Prayers.

An Turas 5: The Cross marking the boundary of the original abbey

Turas 6: The Holy Well

Turas 6: Outside of the Holy Well
(along the road that leads to the car park)

Pilgrims circle the outside of the well three times while saying the Rosary.  Then they kneel outside the railing and say the Station Prayers.

Turas 7

Turas 7: Inside the Holy Well

After this, Pilgrims go inside the enclosure, lift water from the well and say the Station Prayers.
After this they return to the church, enter it and lift the stone which held the cross on the gable end of the abbey.  They then turn around to the right three times resting the stone on the altar  each time.  Once finished, Pilgrims return to the well and put their shoes back on.

Turas 7: Inside the Holy Well enclosure

By now the kids were beyond ready for the promised castle!  A short way up the road (near the intersection with the N56) we passed the signpost for Doon Rock and Holy Well but I didn’t dare stop.  Hopefully, I’ll get another chance to see it.  The trip to Doe Castle was quicker than I expected (20-25 minutes).  When we pulled into view of the castle both kids exclaimed “A castle!”  The castle was wonderful and is free!  You can’t enter the keep, but the kids were in heaven.  It is in pretty good condition, a sight like this would normally have an admission charge.

Doe Castle

Liam storming the castle

Fionnuala storming the castle

The front gate of Doe Castle

Hoodie up to no good

More castle storming

Fionnuala enters the courtyard

The keep from the courtyard

The courtyard

Having a rest

The fact that Doe Castle is free makes it a “must see” if you are in this area and is a perfect fit for little children.  We spent a long time running around the castle and then headed home.  We decided to make the loop around the coast on the N56 through the heart of the Gaeltacht.  It took two hours to get to Killybegs where we stopped at Melly’s Cafe for an early meal.  It wasn’t cheap, but the fish is very good (Fish & chips €11 each, kids burger and chips €3).  Fionnuala ate a bit of everyone’s dish.  After a stop at Supervalu we headed home for the day.

Gaeilge Experience: Only TV, radio and signs.

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